Restaurant Review
BOSTON CITY PAPER
JULY 29, 2006
REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION
TableCritic.com
THE RED FEZ
1222 WASHINGTON STREET
SOUTH END, BOSTON, MA
617-338-6060
By Meredith Smith
An iconic Red Fez affixed to the facade identifies the South End’s most celebrated Middle Eastern restaurant. Inside, Moroccan lanterns cast an alluring light about the earthy hues of the dining room. Moorish arches and Persian rugs, fixtures reminiscent of a medieval Kasbah, interrupt exposed brick and give the room a good dose of exotic without diluting its modern vivacity.
The striking balance of ethnic nostalgia and contemporary style draws an eclectic crowd to this hip Washington Street institution. When the weather permits, a 100-seat patio offers a refreshing outdoor alternative.
An array of chilled and hot mezze (pronounced mez-uh) can become the meal itself or serve as a preview to one of the plentiful entrees turned out by this Lebanese run kitchen. The en vogue tapas-style dining will appeal to late-night diners and to groups that want to sample a variety of tastes and textures. Dredging wedges of pita through garlic and lemon accented hummus is a great opener to a Red Fez dining experience.
An unusual warm and peppery aromatic taste pervades the tabbouleh, giving a unique twist to this Mediterranean summer classic. Other cold mezze include homemade citrusy grape leaves, cooling cucumber yogurt, baba ganoush and kalamatta olive tapenade. Several salads are also included under the cold mezze heading. The Zahtar salad is vehicle to cubes of delightfully heady herbed feta cheese, but the oil heavy dressing could afford to be reworked.
If its spice heavy flavors that you seek, they abound in the hot mezze menu. Seared herbed-crusted scallops come off the grill slightly smoky with a buttery texture and are served with a small salad. Among other shellfish offerings, like the mussels and sautéed shrimp, garlic and preserved lemons punctuate the notable flavors.
Hardier appetites will find plenty of substance in the pine nut studded baked kibbeh. Hints of cumin, cinnamon, and allspice unite with a mixture of ground beef and lamb in this traditional Lebanese dish. Packing a bit more punch are the harissa spiced merguez sausages. Available on their own (perhaps with a spicy harissa aioli for dipping) or wrapped in phyllo with eggplant, onions, and red peppers, these torpedo shaped sausages are a delicious addition to a mezze spread.
Whether navigating your way through a tasters-athalon of appetizers, or opting for the larger portions of grilled kefta, harissa rubbed Cornish hens, or lamb or chicken skewers, be sure to save some room for the locally made Middle Eastern pastries. A variety of honey-sweetened baklavah is the perfect accompaniment to a strong coffee and the ideal finish to an exotic flavorful tour. If it’s one thing they don’t go easy on at the Red Fez, is the sauce.
Impressive selections of cocktails are available including a citrus vodka version of a mojito called the Moroccan. This refreshing lemon and mint concoction will certainly make you forget about the heat with its potent doze of vodka. A variety of fruity margaritas are available straight up or on the rocks. In addition, a good range of domestic and international beers are represented on the bar menu. On the wine front the Fez presents an approachable menu with a good selection of reds and whites available by the glass.
The Red Fez offers a convivial atmosphere in an inviting setting. Diners looking for an intimate corner, or a social dining experience will be equally satisfied in this Middle Eastern eatery. The affordable mezze are generously portioned and amply varied, making it possible for dinner to be a precursor to the evening rather make up of the evening.
And if dinner and evening happen to blend together, the lively bar adjoining the dining room will make a conveniently close transition.